From Seed to Sock: Manufacturing Quality Cotton Yarn in the US

Sock Club
January 10, 2024

Cotton yarn is a popular choice for custom socks due to its softness, breathability, and durability. Quality, made in US cotton yarn requires attention to detail, a well-thought-out process, the right suppliers, and the right equipment. 


From ginning to spinning, this guide will take you through the step-by-step process of high-quality cotton yarn production in the US. It will cover the important steps such as cleaning and carding, spinning, and plying and will provide tips to ensure the best possible results. 


By the end of this guide, you will be able to understand why it is important, and also difficult, to produce the highest quality cotton yarn in the United States.

Harvesting the Cotton

The first step in making cotton yarn for personalized socks is harvesting the cotton plant. The cotton plant is grown in warm, arid regions, such as the southern United States, where the conditions are ideal for its growth. 


Cotton plants are usually harvested between August and October, when the cotton bolls have ripened and are ready to be picked. For more information on how Sock Club sources its American-grown cotton, read From Seed to Sock: Sock Club's Cotton Grown in the United States. 

What Is Cotton Ginning?

Cotton ginning is the first step in the supply chain of creating quality cotton yarn in the US. It is a process of mechanically separating the seeds and fibers of cotton. This is done by passing the raw materials of the cotton through a series of rollers and saws. 

The rollers are used to remove the seeds, while the saws cut the fibers into smaller pieces. After the ginning process is complete, the cotton is ready for further processing.

The ginning process is an integral part of creating quality cotton yarn as it removes impurities and makes the cotton easier to work with. Additionally, it reduces the amount of time needed for further processing. Overall, it is an essential step in creating quality cotton yarn.

Cleaning and Carding the Cotton Yarn

The next step in quality cotton yarn manufacturing is cleaning and carding the cotton. This process removes any impurities that may have been missed during the ginning process. It also helps to align the fibers in the same direction and makes them easier to work with.


The process of cleaning and carding begins by passing the raw cotton through a series of machines. The first machine is a cotton cleaner which gets rid of dirt, debris, and other contaminants. The second machine is a carding machine which combs the fibers and aligns them in the same direction. The third machine is a drawing machine which separates the fibers into different groups based on their length and strength.


Once the cleaning and carding process is complete, the cotton is ready for the next step.


US-grown cotton that has been carded at the Sock Club spinning mill in North Carolina

US-grown cotton that has been carded at the Sock Club spinning mill in North Carolina.

Spinning the Yarn

The next step in the process of making cotton yarn for socks is spinning the fibers into yarn. The spinning of cotton fibers into yarn is an important step in the process of making cotton yarn for custom socks. Spinning is the process of twisting the individual cotton fibers together to form a continuous strand of yarn. This twisting process gives the yarn its strength and makes it suitable for use in a variety of applications, including socks.

The spinning process is done in two stages: carding and spinning. During the carding stage, the cotton fibers are first combed and straightened to remove any impurities and tangles. The carded cotton is then fed into a spinning machine, where it is twisted and wound into a continuous strand of yarn.

The amount of twist in the yarn affects its properties, such as strength and elasticity. More twist results in a stronger yarn, while less twist results in a softer and more elastic yarn. The yarn is typically spun with a medium level of twist, which results in a balanced combination of strength and softness.

The speed at which the yarn is spun also affects its properties. Faster spinning results in a finer yarn, while slower spinning results in a thicker yarn. The thickness of the yarn is typically measured in terms of its denier, which is a unit of measurement used to describe the thickness of a fiber or yarn. 

Cotton yarn for socks is typically spun to a denier of between 20 and 40, which results in a medium-weight yarn that is suitable for use in socks. 

The Sock Club standard cotton yarn is a 20 single thickness, to allow for more detailed patterning in the sock design and a thinner, more versatile weave for the Flagship Cotton Crew socks. It also allows for the loops that form the cushion in the popular custom athletic socks that Sock Club makes.

Thick cotton yarn strands after the first cotton spinning process

Thick cotton yarn strands after the first cotton spinning process at Sock Club's manufacturing facilities in North Carolina.


Plying the Cotton Yarn

The next step in creating quality cotton yarn is plying. This process involves taking two or more threads and twisting them together to create a stronger and more durable yarn. 

The plying process begins by feeding the spun yarn into a plying machine. This machine uses a series of spinning discs to twist the threads together. The discs also add strength and elasticity to the yarn.

Once the plying process is complete, the cotton yarn is ready for the next step.

Once the yarn has been spun, it is wound into skeins, which are compact coils of yarn. These skeins are then washed and dried to remove any remaining impurities and to set the twist in the yarn. The washed and dried yarn is then ready to be dyed, packaged, and sold to manufacturers, who will use it to make high-quality cotton socks.


Strong, plied cotton yarn being spun into 20s single yarn threads

Strong, plied cotton yarn being spun into 20s single yarn threads at Sock Club's American spinning facility.



Testing the Quality of Cotton Yarn

Once the cotton yarn has been created, it is important to ensure that it is of high quality. This is done by testing the yarn for various properties such as strength, elasticity, and color. Testing can be done manually or with the help of machines.


For manual testing, a sample of the yarn is taken and inspected by hand. This allows the tester to check for any imperfections and make sure that it is of the desired quality.


For machine testing, a sample of the yarn is fed into a machine that tests for various properties. This allows for a more accurate and consistent test result.


US factory worker spinning the final cotton yarn into its thinnest length

One of our yarn manufacturing experts spinning the final cotton yarn into its thinnest length.


Tips for Creating Quality Cotton Yarn

When creating quality cotton yarn, it is important to keep a few tips in mind.


First, it is important to ensure that the cotton is of good quality. This means that it should be free of any impurities or contaminants. Additionally, it should be properly cleaned and carded before being spun and plied.


Second, it is important to use the right equipment. This means using machines such as cotton cleaners, carding machines, drawing machines, spinning machines, and plying machines.


Third, it is important to test the yarn for quality. This is done by manually inspecting the yarn or using a machine to test for various properties. One of the many benefits of buying American in the manufacturing sector is that this quality is ensured.


Finally, it is important to store the yarn properly. This means that it should be kept in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.


Conclusion

Creating quality cotton yarn in the US requires attention to detail, a well-thought-out process, and the right equipment. This guide has taken you through the step-by-step process of creating high-quality cotton yarn in the US. It has covered the important steps such as cleaning and carding, spinning, and plying and has provided tips to ensure the best possible results. 


With this guide, you’ll be able to tell the difference between meticulously crafted cotton yarn and yarn that has been manufactured as quickly and cheaply as possible.

Sock Club
January 10, 2024